{"id":10031,"date":"2018-10-10T07:24:51","date_gmt":"2018-10-10T06:24:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/?p=10031"},"modified":"2018-10-11T05:52:03","modified_gmt":"2018-10-11T04:52:03","slug":"mccheta-tady-jezis-nebyl","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/?p=10031","title":{"rendered":"Mccheta: Tady Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161 nebyl"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>V\u0161imli jste si n\u011bkdy, \u017ee Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161 Kristus kr\u00e1\u010d\u00ed cel\u00fd trek na Golgotu vkusn\u011b oble\u010den a teprve na k\u0159\u00ed\u017ei vis\u00ed polonah\u00fd? A napadlo v\u00e1s n\u011bkdy, kam se v\u0161echny ty hadry asi ztratily? Tak j\u00e1 v\u00e1m to \u0159eknu. Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161ovo roucho pr\u00fd vy\u0161melil gruz\u00ednsk\u00fd \u017eid Eli\u00e1\u0161 od jednoho \u0159\u00edmsk\u00e9ho voj\u00e1ka a hned se s n\u00edm vyrazil pochlubit dom\u016f do Mcchety. O tom, jak\u00fdm dopravn\u00edm prost\u0159edkem do Gruzie dojel, historick\u00e9 prameny ml\u010d\u00ed. <\/p>\n<p><!--more-->Kdyby se vydal vlakem a hledal v Mcchet\u011b echtovn\u00ed n\u00e1dra\u017eku, je na cest\u011b dodnes. Kdyby jel autem, tr\u010d\u00ed v Tbilisi v z\u00e1cp\u011b a kdyby zvolil mar\u0161r\u016ftku, mohlo by roucho skon\u010dit ve \u0161karp\u011b spolu s cel\u00fdm minibusem. Gruzie je toti\u017e za \u010cernou Horou a Ruskem t\u0159et\u00ed zem\u00ed s nejv\u00edce \u00famrt\u00edmi na cest\u00e1ch v Evrop\u011b. Asi zvolil jin\u00e9 p\u0159ibli\u017eovadlo, nebo\u0165 o dal\u0161\u00edch osudech t\u00e9to relikvie se gruz\u00ednsk\u00e1 hagiografie vyjad\u0159uje velmi barvit\u011b. Kdy\u017e po Eli\u00e1\u0161ov\u011b p\u0159\u00edjezdu uchopila roucho do ruky jeho sestra Sidonie, zacloumal s n\u00ed takov\u00fd p\u0159\u00edliv emoc\u00ed, a\u017e klesla mrtv\u00e1 k zemi. Roucho pr\u00fd sv\u00edrala tak pevn\u011b, \u017ee ji museli poh\u0159b\u00edt i s n\u00edm, a na m\u00edst\u011b jej\u00edho hrobu pozd\u011bji vyrostla slavn\u00e1 katedr\u00e1la Sveticchoveli, druh\u00e1 nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed v Gruzii. <\/p>\n<p>Vystra\u0161en touto historkou, rad\u0161i ne\u017e l\u00edbat Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161ovo roucho vyrazil jsem l\u00edbat p\u016fllitr do m\u00edstn\u00ed n\u00e1dra\u017eky, nebo\u0165 p\u0159i vyt\u00ed\u017eenosti gruz\u00ednsk\u00e9 \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed s\u00edt\u011b hroz\u00ed cestuj\u00edc\u00edmu v bl\u00edzkosti koleji\u0161t\u011b statisticky podstatn\u011b men\u0161\u00ed nebezpe\u010d\u00ed ne\u017e v bl\u00edzkosti posv\u00e1tn\u00fdch objekt\u016f. <em>\u201eN\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed sice je a\u017e kus za m\u011bstem, ale je tam,\u201c<\/em> uji\u0161\u0165uje m\u011b Kl\u00e1rka.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_05.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_05.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"mccheta_05\" width=\"480\" height=\"320\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10036\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_05.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_05-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>N\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed za m\u011bstem skute\u010dn\u011b je. V\u00fdpravn\u00ed budova s kr\u00e1sn\u011b vyveden\u00fdm obkladem z obl\u00e1zk\u016f sice zjevn\u011b pamatuje vyt\u00ed\u017een\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010dasy, ale fas\u00e1du si po\u0159\u00e1d dr\u017e\u00ed. Vlak\u016f sice jezd\u00ed jen p\u00e1r, p\u0159esto nechyb\u00ed j\u00edzdn\u00ed \u0159\u00e1d hned ve t\u0159ech jazyc\u00edch. Co v\u0161ak ka\u017edop\u00e1dn\u011b chyb\u00ed, je n\u00e1dra\u017eka. Mo\u017en\u00e1 kdysi byla v nazelenal\u00e9 boud\u011b, kterou si asi n\u011bkdo konvertoval na squat. Dnes u\u017e v\u0161ak po \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9m ob\u010derstven\u00ed nen\u00ed ani stopy. Ach tak.<\/p>\n<p>M\u00e1m nicm\u00e9n\u011b zna\u010dn\u00fd hlad, a tak se uchyluji k podobn\u00e9mu \u00faskoku jako kdysi v Nov\u00e9m Hrozenkov\u011b: za n\u00e1dra\u017eku prohla\u0161uji samoobsluhu naproti n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed. A je to volba opr\u00e1vn\u011bn\u00e1 \u2013 supermarket sk\u00fdt\u00e1 \u0161irokou nab\u00eddku lahv\u00e1\u010d\u016f po\u010d\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed z\u00e1hadn\u00fdm n\u00e1zvem \u017dateck\u00fd Gus a Kru\u0161ovice s dlouhat\u00e1nsk\u00fdm \u010desk\u00fdm popisem na vin\u011bt\u011b. P\u0159es gruz\u00ednsk\u00e9 klasiky i zam\u011bniteln\u00e1 europiva a\u017e ke skute\u010dn\u00fdm klenot\u016fm.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_09.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_09.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"mccheta_09\" width=\"480\" height=\"320\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10040\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_09.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_09-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Klenotem z nejz\u00e1\u0159iv\u011bj\u0161\u00edch je pochopiteln\u011b ji\u017e t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 kultovn\u00ed pivo Kazbegi, a dokonce i v pr\u00e9miov\u00e9 variant\u011b Gold. Bo\u017esk\u00fd n\u00e1poj, kter\u00fd n\u00e1m kdysi u\u010daroval nejen svou surrealistickou reklamou, na n\u00ed\u017e z mytick\u00e9 gruz\u00ednsk\u00e9 hory Kazbeku tr\u010d\u00ed ruka s lahv\u00e1\u010dem, ale p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm svou rafinovanou firemn\u00ed politikou, kter\u00e1 z\u0159ejm\u011b obchodn\u00edm z\u00e1stupc\u016fm vel\u00ed obsazovat pouze ty nejzapadlej\u0161\u00ed a nejrozpadlej\u0161\u00ed podniky a m\u00edsta a \u010din\u00ed tak zbo\u017e\u00ed pro konzumenta disponuj\u00edc\u00edho aspo\u0148 jakous takous kupn\u00ed silou jen st\u011b\u017e\u00ed dostupn\u00fdm. <\/p>\n<p>Toto jemn\u00e9 siv\u00e9 \u010dtver\u00e1ctv\u00ed, kter\u00e9 neust\u00e1le hraje s \u017e\u00edzniv\u00fdm z\u00e1kazn\u00edkem jakousi schov\u00e1vanou \u010di sp\u00ed\u0161e sardele, je patrn\u011b vetk\u00e1no do firemn\u00edch hodnot ji\u017e od sam\u00fdch po\u010d\u00e1tk\u016f, nebo\u0165 jedno z m\u00e1la po\u017eivateln\u00fdch gruz\u00ednsk\u00fdch piv se samoz\u0159ejm\u011b v\u016fbec neva\u0159\u00ed v okrese Kazbegi, n\u00fdbr\u017e v n\u011bkdej\u0161\u00edm ocel\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9m centru Rustavi, kde dnes pat\u0159\u00ed k jednomu z m\u00e1la solidn\u00edch zam\u011bstnavatel\u016f \u2013 i kdy\u017e zl\u00ed jazykov\u00e9 tvrd\u00ed, \u017ee pivovar balancuje na hran\u011b insolvence, pokud p\u0159es ni ji\u017e nep\u0159epadl. V\u00fdskyt piva Kazbegi v lokalit\u011b je o tolik unik\u00e1tn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, o kolik vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed je pr\u016fm\u011brn\u00e1 cena za ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed oproti hlavn\u00edmu m\u011bstu Tbilisi. V Mcchet\u011b a okol\u00ed rostou vily jak volebn\u00ed preference Ji\u0159\u00edho \u010cunka ve Zl\u00ednsk\u00e9m kraji a gruz\u00ednsk\u00e1 smet\u00e1nka jezd\u00ed na chalupu pr\u00e1v\u011b do Mcchety.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_11.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_11.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"mccheta_11\" width=\"480\" height=\"480\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10042\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_11.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_11-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_11-300x300.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Je v\u00e1m tedy asi jasn\u00e9, \u017ee m\u00e9 posledn\u00ed pochybnosti ohledn\u011b p\u0159\u00edtomnosti n\u00e1dra\u017eky jsou zlomeny. K p\u016fllitru Kazbegi Gold za 2 lari p\u0159ikupuju chleba za 1 lari a za 2,65 tvaroh s obr\u00e1zkem babi\u010dky, co vypad\u00e1 jako vesnick\u00e1 u\u010ditelka, a jdu to v\u0161echno sp\u00e1st na lavi\u010dku na prvn\u00edm n\u00e1stupi\u0161ti.<\/p>\n<p>N\u00e1dra\u017en\u00ed hodiny se d\u00e1vno zastavily a ukazuj\u00ed \u010das 8:57. Ve skute\u010dnosti u\u017e sice je 12:31, ale jak prav\u00ed trojjazy\u010dn\u00fd j\u00edzdn\u00ed \u0159\u00e1d, elektri\u010dka do Tbilisi p\u0159ijede a\u017e v 16:43, \u010dili ani tento \u010dasov\u00fd posun nic ne\u0159e\u0161\u00ed. \u010casu je dost. N\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed vypad\u00e1 jako stvo\u0159en\u00e9 k \u010dek\u00e1n\u00ed, nebo\u0165 to je asi tak jedin\u00e1 \u010dinnost, kter\u00e1 se tu d\u00e1 provozovat, by\u0165 bez zjevn\u00e9ho v\u00fdsledku. Za tu skoro hodinu, co poj\u00edd\u00e1m sv\u016fj supermarketov\u00fd ob\u011bd a pop\u00edj\u00edm Kazbegi, projede n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00edm jedin\u00fd n\u00e1kladn\u00ed vlak a jinak se tu ned\u011bje v\u016fbec nic. Jen dr\u00e1\u017en\u00ed z\u0159\u00edzenec v reflexn\u00ed vest\u011b vytrh\u00e1v\u00e1 z per\u00f3nu trsy tr\u00e1vy, proto\u017ee to je asi tak jedin\u00e1 pr\u00e1ce, co se tu d\u00e1 d\u011blat.<\/p>\n<p><em>\u201eCo tady d\u011bl\u00e1\u0161?\u201c<\/em> ptaj\u00ed se m\u011b dva kluci v nov\u00e9m SUV, kter\u00e9 si stopnu na silnici do Tbilisi. Vlastn\u011b ani nev\u00edm, co jim \u0159\u00edct.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-10031 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_01.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_01-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_02.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_02-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_03.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_03-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_04.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_04-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_05.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_05-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_06.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_06-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_07.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_07-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_08.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_08-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_09.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_09-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_10.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_10-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_11.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_11-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_11-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_11-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_11.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_12.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_12-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_12-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_12-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/mccheta_12.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>V\u0161imli jste si n\u011bkdy, \u017ee Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161 Kristus kr\u00e1\u010d\u00ed cel\u00fd trek na Golgotu vkusn\u011b oble\u010den a teprve na k\u0159\u00ed\u017ei vis\u00ed polonah\u00fd? A napadlo v\u00e1s n\u011bkdy, kam se v\u0161echny ty hadry asi ztratily? Tak j\u00e1 v\u00e1m to \u0159eknu. Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161ovo roucho pr\u00fd vy\u0161melil gruz\u00ednsk\u00fd \u017eid Eli\u00e1\u0161 od jednoho \u0159\u00edmsk\u00e9ho voj\u00e1ka a hned se s n\u00edm vyrazil pochlubit dom\u016f &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/?p=10031\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;Mccheta: Tady Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161 nebyl&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[122,128],"class_list":["post-10031","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-nadrazky","tag-klarka","tag-np"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10031","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=10031"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10031\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10056,"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10031\/revisions\/10056"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=10031"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=10031"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=10031"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}