{"id":11017,"date":"2020-05-20T09:15:24","date_gmt":"2020-05-20T08:15:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/?p=11017"},"modified":"2020-05-20T09:18:37","modified_gmt":"2020-05-20T08:18:37","slug":"haura-plice-a-motory","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/?p=11017","title":{"rendered":"H\u00e1ura: Pl\u00edce a motory"},"content":{"rendered":"

T\u0159i chlap\u00edci v m\u00e9m kup\u00e9 se dojemn\u011b lou\u010d\u00ed s man\u017eelkami, div na per\u00f3n nekanou slzy. Jen co se vlak rozjede, u\u017e si sypou do pusy gutku. \u201eBu\u010fte v klidu, oni jsou v\u0161ichni d\u011blnick\u00e1 t\u0159\u00edda,\u201c<\/em> soucitn\u011b se ke mn\u011b p\u0159it\u00e1\u010d\u00ed jeden z cestuj\u00edc\u00edch. \u201eM\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt,\u201c<\/em> pov\u00edd\u00e1m si v duchu a vytahuju z kapsy pytl\u00edk \u017ev\u00fdkac\u00edho tab\u00e1ku.<\/p>\n

Beng\u00e1lsk\u00e1 metropole Kalkata je ve skute\u010dnosti sp\u00ed\u0161 dvojm\u011bst\u00ed, rozd\u011blen\u00e9 \u0159ekou Hugl\u00ed a spojen\u00e9 n\u011bkolika mosty. Ten nejslavn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, ofici\u00e1ln\u011b naz\u00fdvan\u00fd Rab\u00edndra setu \u010dili Rab\u00edndr\u016fv most podle b\u00e1sn\u00edka Rab\u00edndran\u00e1tha Th\u00e1kura, byl postaven v roce 1943. Ve sv\u00e9 dob\u011b \u0161lo o t\u0159et\u00ed nejdel\u0161\u00ed konzolov\u00fd most na sv\u011bt\u011b a technick\u00e1 pam\u00e1tka dodnes plat\u00ed za jeden ze symbol\u016f m\u011bsta. Vede sice p\u0159\u00edmo k n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed, ale ma\u0161inky a vag\u00f3nky na n\u011bm nehledejte. Pro ty je tu Viv\u00e9k\u00e1nand\u016fv most, kter\u00fd v roce 1932 (tedy rok po p\u0159esunu hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta do Dill\u00ed) poprv\u00e9 dovedl \u017eeleznici a\u017e do Kalkaty. Ani po n\u011bm ale vlastn\u011b a\u017e tak moc vlak\u016f nejezd\u00ed. V\u011bt\u0161ina spoj\u016f z indick\u00e9ho vnitrozem\u00ed toti\u017e kon\u010d\u00ed u\u017e na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed na kalkatsk\u00e9m p\u0159edm\u011bst\u00ed H\u00e1ura.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

A nekon\u010d\u00ed jich tu m\u00e1lo. V H\u00e1u\u0159e se ka\u017ed\u00fd den vyto\u010d\u00ed v\u00edce ne\u017e 600 osobn\u00edch spoj\u016f a dva miliony cestuj\u00edc\u00edch, kte\u0159\u00ed se hem\u017e\u00ed po 23 koncov\u00fdch n\u00e1stupi\u0161t\u00edch, co\u017e je nejv\u00edc v cel\u00e9 Indii. Mezi per\u00f3ny zaj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bj\u00ed i auta a n\u00e1kla\u010f\u00e1ky a je\u0161t\u011b v okruhu dvou kilometr\u016f od n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed potk\u00e1v\u00e1te nosi\u010de, bali\u010de, p\u0159eklada\u010de a dal\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1stupce spedi\u010dn\u00edho cechu. Kalkata sice m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt srdcem Beng\u00e1lska, ale H\u00e1ura jsou v tom p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b jeho pl\u00edce, kter\u00e9 p\u0159iv\u00e1d\u011bj\u00ed do krevn\u00edho ob\u011bhu m\u011bsta st\u00e1le nov\u00e9 a \u010derstv\u011b okysli\u010den\u00e9 lidi, zv\u00ed\u0159ata i v\u011bci, a mo\u017en\u00e1 i vlastnosti a d\u011bje. <\/p>\n

Z v\u00fd\u0161e uveden\u00e9ho asi dok\u00e1\u017eete dovodit, \u017ee ani o n\u00e1dra\u017eky nen\u00ed v H\u00e1u\u0159e nouze. Nen\u00ed, a vybere si ka\u017ed\u00fd. Food Track v p\u0159\u00edzem\u00ed historick\u00e9 budovy z roku 1905 nab\u00edz\u00ed vkusn\u011b prosma\u017een\u00e1 sn\u00edda\u0148ov\u00e1 men\u00ed\u010dka \u2013 ano, men\u00ed\u010dka, proto\u017ee ke sv\u00fdm bhat\u00far\u00e1m nebo par\u00e1th\u00e1m dostanete i jednu sladkou kouli gul\u00e1b d\u017e\u00e1munu. D\u017ean \u00c1h\u00e1r v prvn\u00edm pat\u0159e nov\u011bj\u0161\u00ed budovy z 80. let nab\u00edz\u00ed tak leda hezk\u00fd v\u00fdhled na n\u00e1stupi\u0161t\u011b a pokrm s tajupln\u00fdm n\u00e1zvem motor pan\u00edr<\/em>, kter\u00fd v\u00e1m aspo\u0148 n\u00e1zorn\u011b vysv\u011btl\u00ed, pro\u010d si Beng\u00e1lci p\u0159ejmenovali sv\u00e9 hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto z Kalkaty na Kolkatu: kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 a se tady vyslovuje (a mnohdy i p\u00ed\u0161e) sp\u00ed\u0161 jako o.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Jak\u00fd je rozd\u00edl mezi m\u011bstskou vlakovou dopravou v Kalkat\u011b a v Dill\u00ed? A pro\u010d se Beng\u00e1lci pova\u017euj\u00ed za kulturn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1rod ne\u017e Hindov\u00e9? To v\u0161echno se do\u010dtete v nov\u00e9 knize Sma\u017eenky a mach\u0159i<\/a>, kter\u00e1 v\u00e1s provede nejen po indick\u00fdch n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00edch a n\u00e1dra\u017ek\u00e1ch, ale i celou sou\u010dasnou indickou spole\u010dnost\u00ed.
\n<\/em>
\n