{"id":7796,"date":"2015-02-03T23:51:50","date_gmt":"2015-02-03T22:51:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/?p=7796"},"modified":"2015-02-04T08:47:05","modified_gmt":"2015-02-04T07:47:05","slug":"no-city-for-slow-men","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/?p=7796","title":{"rendered":"No City for Slow Men"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>aneb prvn\u00ed dojmy z v\u00fdjezdn\u00edho zased\u00e1n\u00ed redakce v Hongkongu<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Na planet\u011b Zemi je n\u011bkolik m\u00edst, kde lze pozorovat specifick\u00fd klimatick\u00fd jev, kter\u00fd bychom laicky mohli nazvat \u201eindiferentn\u00ed po\u010das\u00ed\u201c. \u010clov\u011bk se r\u00e1no pod\u00edv\u00e1 z okna, proto\u017ee chce v\u011bd\u011bt, jak\u00e9 je venku po\u010das\u00ed, ale zjist\u00ed pouze jedinou v\u011bc \u2013 \u017ee venku je\u2026 po\u010das\u00ed. Kdy\u017e vyjde na ulici, p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010d\u00ed se o tom sam\u00e9m \u2013 jo, je tu (asi) vzduch. N\u011bkde nad n\u00e1mi asi pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b je n\u011bco jako nebe. Po\u010das\u00ed existuje. J\u00e1 taky existuju. Nebo ne? Hong Kong je jedn\u00edm z t\u011bch m\u00edst. <\/p>\n<p><!--more-->Stoj\u00edm tedy p\u0159ed domem a uva\u017euju, jestli se m\u016f\u017ee st\u00e1t, \u017ee mi v tom, co m\u00e1m zrovna na sob\u011b, bude horko nebo zima. Nedok\u00e1\u017eu to ale posoudit, proto\u017ee jsem obklopena asi-vzduchem a nebe nen\u00ed vid\u011bt. Pokr\u010d\u00edm tedy rameny a vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edm na metro. \u00davahy o metafyzick\u00fdch rozm\u011brech meteorologie jsou n\u00e1sledn\u011b p\u0159ehlu\u0161en\u00fd \u010dichov\u00fdm vjemem z m\u00edstn\u00ed knedl\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 restaurace. Ukazuje se, \u017ee v Hong Kongu maj\u00ed obdobu toho, co v Praze v Rumunsk\u00e9 vyr\u00e1b\u00ed pan\u00ed Knedl\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 (kdo nev\u00ed, kde to je a kdo to je a co to je, tak za prv\u00e9 nem\u00e1 n\u00e1rok na \u017eivot a za druh\u00e9 a\u0165 se jde pod\u00edvat do Rumunsk\u00e9). \u010c\u00ed\u0148ani pr\u00fd dokonce vymysleli i samotnou pan\u00ed Knedl\u00ed\u010dkovou a cel\u00fd koncept knedl\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b. Pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b proto jim nezbyl \u010das na to, aby si vymysleli po\u010das\u00ed. Z knedl\u00ed\u010dk\u00e1rny na rohu Ki Lung Street se ka\u017edop\u00e1dn\u011b line nezam\u011bniteln\u00e1 v\u016fn\u011b napa\u0159ovan\u00e9ho \u010dehosi (knedl\u00ed\u010dk\u016f?), kter\u00e1 m\u016f\u017ee nep\u0159ipraven\u00e9ho kolemjdouc\u00edho v\u00fdznamn\u011b ohrozit na zdrav\u00ed a v\u00e9st a\u017e k celkov\u00e9 ztr\u00e1t\u011b \u010dichu.<\/p>\n<p>Pokra\u010duju kolem knedl\u00ed\u010dk\u00e1rny d\u00e1le okolo obchodu, kter\u00fd prod\u00e1v\u00e1 l\u00e1tky, dal\u0161\u00edho obchodu, kter\u00fd prod\u00e1v\u00e1 l\u00e1tky a je\u0161t\u011b jednoho obchodu, kter\u00fd prod\u00e1v\u00e1 l\u00e1tky a\u017e k obchodu, kter\u00fd prod\u00e1v\u00e1 su\u0161en\u00e9 housenky. P\u0159ekro\u010den\u00edm ulice, kde auta jezd\u00ed ze \u0161patn\u00e9ho sm\u011bru, se dost\u00e1v\u00e1m na legend\u00e1rn\u00ed trh s elektronikou na Appliu Street, tedy m\u00edstn\u00ed lidovou obdobu Apple Storu. Zat\u00edmco knedl\u00ed\u010dky m\u011b p\u0159ipravily o \u010dich, tady p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edm o zrak. USB kabel, kter\u00fd je duhov\u00fd a na p\u0159\u00e1n\u00ed blik\u00e1? Repr\u00e1\u010dky k ajfounu, kter\u00e9 maj\u00ed m\u00edsto ekvaliz\u00e9ru vodotrysk? Obal na tablet ve tvaru jednoro\u017ece s fejkov\u00fdm diamantem na \u010dele? Nen\u00ed probl\u00e9m.<\/p>\n<p>Poslepu se dost\u00e1v\u00e1m na konec ulice ke k\u00fd\u017een\u00e9mu c\u00edli, stanici metra Sham Shui Po. Zde je d\u00edlo dokon\u00e1no, neb p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edm o sluch. N\u011bkolik m\u016f\u017eu v ko\u017een\u00fdch bund\u00e1ch s mikrofony v rukou zde sout\u011b\u017e\u00ed o pozornost kolemjdouc\u00edch, vyk\u0159ikuj\u00edce cosi v kanton\u0161tin\u011b za doprovodu malebn\u00e9ho \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9ho popu. Docela jako ten p\u00e1n, kter\u00fd v Praze na I. P. Pavlova zp\u00edv\u00e1, \u017ee Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161 n\u00e1s v\u0161echny miluje. Tady se ov\u0161em jedn\u00e1 o jin\u00fd druh n\u00e1bo\u017eenstv\u00ed: mu\u017ei s mikrofony nab\u00edz\u00ed mobiln\u00ed aplikace. <\/p>\n<p>Vpluju do podchodu stanice metra a p\u0159ipad\u00e1m si jako astr\u00e1ln\u00ed bytost bez t\u011bla. Sham Shui Po, jedna z nejstrar\u0161\u00edch a \u00fadajn\u011b nejv\u00edc \u201etradi\u010dn\u00edch a autentick\u00fdch\u201c \u010dtvrt\u00ed v Hong Kongu, m\u011b p\u0159ipravila o smyslov\u00e9 a t\u011blesn\u00e9 funkce, a st\u00e1v\u00e1m se neviditelnou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed chim\u00e9rick\u00e9 hmoty zn\u00e1m\u00e9 jako \u201e\u010d\u00ed\u0148ani\u201c, kter\u00e1 se p\u0159esouv\u00e1 po eskal\u00e1torech a po n\u00e1stupi\u0161t\u00edch metra. <\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-7796 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/HK1.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/HK1-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/HK2.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/HK2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/HK3.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/HK3-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/HK4.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/HK4-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/HK5.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/wp-content\/HK5-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" sizes=\"auto, 100vw\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Kdy\u017e se n\u00e1m jednoho dne poda\u0159\u00ed nev\u00eddan\u00e1 v\u011bc, a to toti\u017e ocitnout se v parku (to se v Hong Kongu st\u00e1v\u00e1 asi tak ka\u017ed\u00fd sud\u00fd rok druh\u00e9 \u00fater\u00fd v prosinci vzhledem k po\u010dtu zelen\u00fdch ploch na po\u010det obyvatel), rozv\u00edj\u00edme \u00favahu o tom, z \u010deho se vlastn\u011b tahle \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e1 masa t\u011bl, kter\u00e1 proud\u00ed ulicemi, nadchody, podchody a nekone\u010dnou \u0159adu obchodn\u00edch center, kter\u00e9 dohromady tvo\u0159\u00ed m\u011bsto Hong Kong, vlastn\u011b skl\u00e1d\u00e1. Dosp\u00edv\u00e1me k tomu, \u017ee nejsme rasisti ale, \u201ekdyby ten kolonialismus nebyl zru\u0161enej, mohli jsme tu bejt skoro sami\u201c, jak smutn\u011b poznamen\u00e1v\u00e1 Matou\u0161. \u201eAle oni jsou v pohod\u011b, ty \u010c\u00ed\u0148ani. Se usm\u00edvaj a tak\u201c, kontruju a pohledem sleduju p\u00e1na, co na mal\u00e9m kousku \u0161t\u011brkov\u00e9 cesti\u010dky odlo\u017eil sako na zem a jal se cvi\u010dit tai chi. \u201eAkor\u00e1t jich je prost\u011b moc\u201c, dod\u00e1m po chv\u00edli. C\u00edt\u00edme, \u017ee tahle politicky nekorektn\u00ed pravda m\u011bla mo\u017en\u00e1 z\u016fstat nevy\u0159\u010dena. <\/p>\n<p>T\u00edm se ale dost\u00e1v\u00e1me k dal\u0161\u00ed existenci\u00e1ln\u00ed ot\u00e1zce, kterou pobyt v Hong Kongu cht\u011b necht\u011b n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edkovi pokl\u00e1d\u00e1. Existence \u010di neexistence kolonialismu je tady toti\u017e stejn\u011b sporn\u00e1 jako existence po\u010das\u00ed. Ofici\u00e1ln\u011b se to prej zru\u0161ilo u\u017e d\u00e1vno, ale n\u011bco z toho asi muselo z\u016fstat, proto\u017ee jak jinak si vysv\u011btlit m\u00edstn\u00ed \u010dtvr\u0165 Mid-levels, plnou luxusn\u00edch mrakodrap\u016f, cool butik\u016f a kav\u00e1ren a obda\u0159enou jedn\u00edm z nejdel\u0161\u00edch venkovn\u00edch eskal\u00e1tor\u016f na sv\u011bt\u011b, ve kter\u00e9 nen\u00ed skoro v\u016fbec \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd \u010c\u00ed\u0148an a v\u0161ichni maj\u00ed podez\u0159ele britsk\u00fd p\u0159\u00edzvuk? Ale neradi bychom to tu n\u011bjak rozeb\u00edrali, proto\u017ee etnick\u00e1 segregace je o\u0161kliv\u00e1 v\u011bc.<\/p>\n<p>Existence kolonialismu a po\u010das\u00ed tedy z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 nevy\u0159e\u0161ena. Pak jsou ale jin\u00e9 jevy, jejich\u017e existence je v Hong Kongu potvrzen\u00e1 a velmi intenzivn\u00ed. Jedn\u00edm z t\u011bchto jev\u016f je to, co se odborn\u011b naz\u00fdv\u00e1 \u201espot\u0159ebn\u00ed ekonomika\u201c, kter\u00e1 jednoduch\u00fd princip \u201emus\u00ed\u0161 pracovat, abys mohl utr\u00e1cet\u201c, p\u0159etavila do n\u00e1rodn\u00edho sportu i politick\u00e9ho programu cel\u00e9ho tohohle ostrovn\u00edho skorost\u00e1tu. (Existence hongkongsk\u00e9 politick\u00e9 autonomie a nez\u00e1vislosti na Pekingu je na \u00farovni kolonialismu a po\u010das\u00ed. Nelze \u0159\u00edci, jak to s n\u00ed vlastn\u011b p\u0159esn\u011b je a jestli je nebo nen\u00ed.) V\u00fdsledkem d\u016fsledn\u00e9ho uplat\u0148ov\u00e1n\u00ed tohoto principu je situace, kdy ob\u010dan Hong Kongu m\u016f\u017ee o\u010dek\u00e1vat jen velmi m\u00e1lo \u017eivotn\u00edch jistot t\u0159eba ve smyslu d\u016fchodov\u00e9ho syst\u00e9mu nebo zdravotn\u00edho poji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed. M\u00e1 ale jistotu, \u017ee si kdykoliv, ale opravdu kdykoliv, t\u0159eba v ned\u011bli v jeden\u00e1ct ve\u010der, m\u016f\u017ee j\u00edt koupit Rolexky s diamantov\u00fdm cifern\u00edkem nebo Chanel kabelku z had\u00ed k\u016f\u017ee. A v\u011bt\u0161ina ob\u010dan\u016f Hong Kongu to taky tak d\u011bl\u00e1.<\/p>\n<p>Proto jsem ve chv\u00edli, kdy se dav vyval\u00ed z metra na stanici Central na Hong Kong Island, nucen\u00e1 vr\u00e1tit se do t\u011blesn\u00e9 podoby a nal\u00e9zt zp\u011bt ztracenou individualitu. Kdybych se toti\u017e nechala nad\u00e1le un\u00e1\u0161et davem a ocitla se v butiku s diamanty a kabelkami z had\u00ed k\u016f\u017ee, uk\u00e1zalo by se, \u017ee nejsem ob\u010dan Hong Kongu, ale oby\u010dejn\u00e1 pra\u017esk\u00e1 socka. Za\u010dnu si tedy razit cestu davem, sleduju sv\u016fj odraz ve v\u00fdloh\u00e1ch zna\u010dkov\u00fdch butik\u016f a ve skrytu du\u0161e se mi st\u00fdsk\u00e1 po sn\u011bhu a tramvajov\u00fdch zast\u00e1vk\u00e1ch na \u017di\u017ekov\u011b. Po p\u016fl hodin\u011b se vy\u010derpan\u011b zhrout\u00edm do posledn\u00ed voln\u00e9 \u017eidle v prostor\u00e1ch nejmenovan\u00e9ho \u0159et\u011bzce kav\u00e1ren, souk\u00e1m do sebe n\u011bco, co se jmenuje \u201ecinamon ginger soya latte christmas special\u201c (namlouv\u00e1m si, \u017ee mi to p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed cukrov\u00ed) a medituju o tom, kde jsem se to vlastn\u011b ocitla.<br \/>\nVe m\u011bst\u011b, kde neexistuje \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 rovn\u00fd kus zem\u011b a v\u0161echny ty nerovn\u00e9 kusy jsou zastaven\u00e9 obludn\u011b \u00fazk\u00fdmi a obludn\u011b vysok\u00fdmi mrakodrapy. Ve m\u011bst\u011b, kde mezi t\u011bmi mrakodrapy existuj\u00ed ulice a uli\u010dky pln\u00e9 st\u00e1nk\u016f, lid\u00ed, chut\u00ed, v\u016fn\u00ed a misek s nudlemi, kter\u00e9 vypadaj\u00ed, \u017ee si existence okoln\u00edch mrakodrap\u016f v\u016fbec nev\u0161imly. Ve m\u011bst\u011b, kde vyd\u011blat si na ferrari a cp\u00e1t se ka\u017ed\u00fd den kavi\u00e1rem v michelinsk\u00e9 restauraci je jednodu\u0161\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e d\u00fdchat, poklidn\u011b st\u00e1rnout a nebydlet v n\u011b\u010dem, co se velikost\u00ed rovn\u00e1 krabici od bot. Ve m\u011bst\u011b, kde lidi nechod\u00ed na pivo, proto\u017ee to zdr\u017euje mezi prac\u00ed a nakupov\u00e1n\u00edm. Ve m\u011bst\u011b, kter\u00e9 se m\u011b nejd\u0159\u00edv pokou\u0161\u00ed uma\u010dkat ve front\u011b na eskal\u00e1tor a n\u00e1sledn\u011b m\u011b vyplivn\u011b na promen\u00e1du v p\u0159\u00edstavu s v\u00fdhledem na miliony sv\u011btel a neon\u016f urb\u00e1nn\u00ed budoucnosti lidstva. Ve m\u011bst\u011b, kde si pod d\u00e1lni\u010dn\u00edm obchvatem vybudovali buddhistick\u00fd kl\u00e1\u0161ter se zenovou zahradou, kterou u vchodu opat\u0159ili cedul\u00ed s v\u00fd\u010dtem z\u00e1kaz\u016f \u010dinnost\u00ed potenci\u00e1ln\u011b ohro\u017euj\u00edc\u00edch zenovou atmosf\u00e9ru (pat\u0159\u00ed mezi n\u011b no\u0161en\u00ed svatebn\u00edch \u0161at\u016f a slavnostn\u00edch uniforem z promoc\u00ed). Ve m\u011bst\u011b, kter\u00e9 m\u011b fascinuje o to v\u00edc, \u017ee ho v\u016fbec, ale fakt v\u016fbec nedok\u00e1\u017eu pochopit. <\/p>\n<p>Kdy\u017e potom le\u017e\u00edme ve\u010der st\u00edsn\u011bn\u00ed jako sardinky v t\u00e9 na\u0161\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed krabici od bot, nohy n\u00e1m koukaj\u00ed z okna a ruce m\u00e1me v kuchyni, ti\u0161e se zamysl\u00edm a \u0159\u00edk\u00e1m: <em>\u201eMn\u011b p\u0159ijde, \u017ee cel\u00fd tohle m\u011bsto m\u00e1 \u00fapln\u011b zkurven\u00fd feng \u0161uej\u201c<\/em>. <\/p>\n<div id=\"fb-root\"><\/div>\n<p><script src=\"http:\/\/connect.facebook.net\/en_US\/all.js#xfbml=1\"><\/script><fb:like href=\"http:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/?p=7796\" send=\"true\" font=\"\"><\/fb:like><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>aneb prvn\u00ed dojmy z v\u00fdjezdn\u00edho zased\u00e1n\u00ed redakce v Hongkongu Na planet\u011b Zemi je n\u011bkolik m\u00edst, kde lze pozorovat specifick\u00fd klimatick\u00fd jev, kter\u00fd bychom laicky mohli nazvat \u201eindiferentn\u00ed po\u010das\u00ed\u201c. \u010clov\u011bk se r\u00e1no pod\u00edv\u00e1 z okna, proto\u017ee chce v\u011bd\u011bt, jak\u00e9 je venku po\u010das\u00ed, ale zjist\u00ed pouze jedinou v\u011bc \u2013 \u017ee venku je\u2026 po\u010das\u00ed. Kdy\u017e vyjde na ulici, &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/?p=7796\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;No City for Slow Men&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":11,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[107,19],"class_list":["post-7796","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-vagusuv-denik","tag-mari","tag-matous"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7796","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/11"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=7796"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7796\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7815,"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7796\/revisions\/7815"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=7796"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=7796"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vagus.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=7796"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}